Workshop lighting solutions

Above: An inexpensive aluminium pool fencepost and a prewired flood light make for a great lighting solution over my spindle moulder. The fenceposts are readily available at the local hardware and are great for lighting (and general shop) infrastructure.

Words and photos: David Luckensmeyer

Good lighting is important for all aspects of woodwork. Both commercial workshops and hobby spaces need light: general, specific area and dedicated task lighting.

I love the technical details of lights and light sources! After defining some of the terms and ratings you’re likely to come across, I explore conventional and perhaps not so conventional task lighting options available today, including some inexpensive do-it-yourself solutions.

This fluorescent light fixture not only illuminates the length of the lathe bed, but it is much cheaper than most machine lights with a magnetic base.

Definitions and recommendations

Types: Incandescent, halogen, fluorescent and LED lights are the most relevant. Fluorescent tubes are still widespread but rapidly being replaced with LEDs (light emitting diodes). LEDs use less power, give off less heat and are generally long-lasting.

Intensity: This refers to the amount of light or luminosity emitted over
a specific area. ‘Lumen’ (lm) is a measure of the total quantity of visible light while ‘lux’ (lx) expresses its intensity. In practical terms (e.g. the shop floor area): 1lx = 1lm/m2. Uniformity of light is more important than chasing lumens (see below).

Efficiency: Most fixtures list wattage or power consumption. But also look for how much light is emitted per watt (W). The range can be quite broad with poor specifications of 70lm/W or worse. Lights above 100lm/W are considered more efficient, but more expensive.

Colour or temperature: Measured in kelvins (K), low temperatures are ‘yellowish’ (2,700–3,000K) while higher temperatures are ‘bluish’ (5,000–6,500K). There are no right or wrong colours here, although cooler temperatures are perceived as ‘brighter’ in the shop. Don’t stray too far from ‘daylight’ (around 5,000K).

Quality: The colour rendering index (CRI) is benchmarked against daylight (CRI 100) as the best source of light for good colour rendering. Light sources < CRI 80 are poor while sources > CRI 90 are considered good. There is a softness (less glare) and a richness of colour that comes from using higher CRI-rated light sources.

There is a common misconception that lower temperatures (e.g. incandescents, halogens) are better than higher temperatures (e.g. fluorescent tubes) for assessing timber colour and tinted oils for finishing. But it is the quality of the light source (CRI) rather than the colour (K) that is more important for distinguishing colours accurately. The misconception stems from the fact that incandescents and halogens are usually higher quality  light sources. LEDs used to be (and often still are) atrocious, but it is now possible to source LED light sources with a high CRI-rating.

Because of the multiple flood light sources, I can eliminate (or create) shadows as needed.

Fluorescent tubes

Fluorescent tubes or batten lights are great for general shop lighting. I also use them for task lighting over my lathe. Mine are attached to a cabinet but an overhead shelf would work too. The readily available DIY versions are plug and play and work well.

Floodlights for bench and machine work

When LED flood lights came on sale a few years back I bought several and used them in a staggered arrangement to light my hand tool area. Each light can be angled quickly to suit the work at hand, and they are all plugged into one power board with switch. The 10–15W versions work best in smaller areas while 20W versions are better for larger areas.

I have multiple sets of predrilled holes and can easily relocate task lighting such as the spotlight shown from one end of the bench to the other, or remove it altogether. Sometimes I attach task lighting to one of my European sawhorses for extra versatility. This keeps my bench clear. 

Articulated spotlights

Light sources on an articulated arm are versatile and useful for specific tasks in the shop. Different options for attachment (screws, clamps, or magnets) increase usability and I set mine up all over the place. For example, spotlights provide flexible raking light for finishing to expose flaws, or for carving to spot imperfections. Most often I use spotlights on machines or at the bench to illuminate a specific task.

Shadowless light is key for efficient and accurate work.

Bar lighting

Bar lights have been around for a long time but robust knock-about versions  are generally expensive. I use a dimmable, articulated bar light at my dovetail bench. It offers wonderfully even lighting for hand sawing and chiselling to a line, and particularly to either side of the line.

The dimmable feature is not a gimmick. Strongly disparate light sources (e.g. general versus task lighting) can bring about the perception of ‘dark areas’ even if those areas are well lit. Paradoxically, sometimes I can see my work better with reduced intensity or lux.

In summary, if you’re in the market for a new task light, consider LED light sources with good efficiency (> 100lm/W), a temperature you prefer (around 5,000K or daylight is a good starting point although I prefer 4000K), and the best quality you can afford (look for > CRI 90). For sure, the bar light is the best for detailed work but there are plenty of prewired, inexpensive DIY options too.

David Luckensmeyer @luckensmeyer is a Brisbane-based woodworker and furniture maker, see www.luckensmeyer.com.au