How to Buy Wood
Knowing industry conventions will help you get the sizes and quality you need, says Damion Fauser. Photo: Linda Nathan
Words and photos: Damion Fauser
Almost invariably, one of the first questions I get asked when people first visit my workshop is ‘where do you buy your timber?’ And whilst there is an element of truth to my standard cringe- worthy dad joke response of ‘from the wood shop’, there are many background factors, standards and colloquialisms in the industry that, once you learn the vernacular, make buying the stock for your projects so much easier.
Whether you’re buying your timber from a large-scale retailer (or even wholesaler, depending on the magnitude of your orders), a local or boutique mill, or even privately through the classifieds or socials, some of these considerations will apply to any board you ever buy. Most of what I’ll be writing about will apply to buying from larger and reputable retailers and suppliers.
I’m not going to cover the details of tendering for logs, the specifics of calculating how much stock you’ll need to buy, or the particulars of buying in strapped packs such as reading tally sheets – the first is outside the scope of this article and the latter two are the subject of another article this issue.
Industry standards and conventions
As a natural, fibrous, non-homogenous substance, we all know that no two boards are ever the same. Accordingly, there are standards and tolerances for the dimensions and assessment of quality by which furniture and joinery timber is sold here in Australia. Having these details memorised or ready at hand when you are ordering or selecting your stock will likely mean the difference between buying boards that are suitable or not for your project.
Take a moment to digest some of those tolerances shown in Table 1 and what they could mean to your project. While most suppliers are pretty good and you generally get close to whatis ordered, you do need to be aware of the potential cost of ordering with margins that are too fine. Let’s say you’re planning a tabletop that’s 32mm thick – you’d be forgiven for thinking that you could get away with buying 38mm boards. But with an acceptable tolerance of +/- 5mm, you are able to be supplied with boards that come at 33mm thick, which doesn’t leave you much room for dressing.
Accept the fact that sometimes you’ll win and get stock that is over the standard dimension, sometimes you’ll lose. Plan for this on a conservative basis and you’ll not be left short. The numbers in the table apply to most species, but please note that some species (exotics in particular), have some slight variation in those numbers – it could be worth discussing this with your supplier at the time of ordering.
D is for delivery day...time to activate the ‘human forklift’, as the author calls it.
Note that there are limitations to what you can realistically expect in terms of these dimensions, particularly width and length. From a botanical perspective, some species simply don’t grow large enough or in sufficient quantities to expect every board to be really wide or long, and even if they
do grow very tall as a tree (such as hoop pine), as a rule the maximum length you’ll be able to get will be 6m, which is defined by local transport and material handling equipment (MHE) capabilities. If you’re doing a unique job that requires longer boards, then you’ll be botanically limited in terms of species choice and will need to chat to your supplier about a custom order and the necessary transportation logistics.
Another local convention that you’ll need to know is the sequencing of dimensions when describing a board or reading a cutlist here in Australia. Our local convention is Length x Width x Thickness, in that order, where length is always the long grain dimension and very well may be a smaller number than the width, for example a vertical divider inside a cabinet or desk structure. Note that this is not a globally accepted convention, so you may need to interpret the drawings or plans to ensure you convert to the correct convention here in Australia for ordering.
Imperial entanglements
The simple reality is that a substantial amount of good literature and plans come out of the USA, and so having a rudimentary understanding of the imperial system is very handy for us woodworkers. In particular, knowing how to convert feet and inches to centimetres (cm) and millimetres (mm), even approximately, will greatly assist. Going as far as having some imperial rulers and tapes may negate any requirement for conversion at all however.
Now, you’ve all probably seen plans that call for ‘30 board feet of 6/4 lumber’ and wondered what they’re referring to and how much stock you need.
A board foot is a volumetric measurement and equates to 144 cubic inches, in any dimensional configuration. For example, a board that is 12" long, 12" wide and 1" thick (approx. 300 x 300 x 25mm) is 1 board foot. Equally, a 12" x 6" x 2" (approx. 300 x 150 x 50mm) is also 1 board foot. Note how the dimensions multiply to yield 144 in either case.
The x/4 is a convention to describe stock thickness, where x/4 is x times 1/4" of thickness. For example, 8/4 stock is 8 x 1/4" which equals 2" or approximately 50mm.
3. Rather than specifing quarter- or rift-sawn boards, you can often source this material from the edges of wider boards.
4. Cutting through the milling marks to assess colour and grain pattern is a privilege that must be politely asked for.
5. The section shown was identified as defective and this was reflected in the pack tally sheet.
Stock gradings
This where things can start to get a little subjective. All timber stock is graded by quality at the sawmill as soon as it is cut into boards from the log and prior to going off for air or kiln drying. It is then graded for a second time after coming out of the kiln. This fact is important to note for when we discuss defects later on.
The grading systems and standards vary between domestic and imported species, and they also vary in some cases between softwoods and hardwoods. Broadly, the grading systems in place define a list of grade titles and for each grade, the minimum dimensions for a board and a percentage of allowable defects for each board within that grading.
Note that each grading contains a range, so any pack at one grading can contain boards at the lower end and the higher end of the grade allocation. For domestic species, the gradings are specified in Australian Standard 2796.2 – Timber, Hardwood, Sawn and Milled products, Grade Description. It describes, amongst other gradings, the two most common grades you’ll see for furniture and cabinetry timber, being Standards and Better (SAB) and Select. Hoop pine has its own grading system and you’ll see gradings such as No.1 and No.2 Clears.
For species imported from the US, the gradings can be found in the Illustrated Guide to American Hardwood Grades, published by the American Hardwood Export Council at americanhardwood.org. Grades you’ll likely see for US timbers will be First and Seconds (FAS), Prime and Super Prime. Naturally, the higher the grade, the more expensive the stock.
6. This board contained an obvious variation from normal straight-grained stock, but was not graded as defective.
7. A moisture meter and EMC chart are essential when assessing stock.
8. Comparing the reading from this image and the one adjacent shows how widely MC varies.
Selecting stock yourself
Depending on the scale of the merchant you’re buying from, as well as the amount you’re proposing to purchase, you may be allowed to visit the depot to view and select the stock, but in many cases don’t be surprised if this is not a viable option. If buying from socials/classifieds in your local area I would be very wary of any denial of inspection access.
If personal inspection and selection isn’t possible, then you’ll be faced with the prospect of buying sight- unseen. From the larger and reputable suppliers this is generally not an issue, as they will do their very best to satisfy you to ensure repeat custom. This can be a risk with species such as jarrah, Tasmanian blackwood, American white oak, walnut and New Guinea rosewood for example, that have wildly-varying colour tones and/ or prominent sapwood demarcation within the species.
One of my regular suppliers now has a standard caveat when providing quotes for such species along the lines of ‘please note that due to the varying nature of this material we will not colour match’. Whilst not a viable option for everybody, my solution to this is to buy substantially more than I need, which allows me to take the time I need in my own shop space to go through the order to select the best boards for colour-matching, avoiding defects, grain and figure selection.
Some sellers will let you visit the depot and select a small order, even down to one board. If you are fortunate enough to be able to be in this situation, then bear in mind certain protocols and courtesies to ensure your experience is a good one and you get invited back for future purchases. Simple things such as:
• Call ahead to confirm stock availability and even organise a time to visit. The stock you’re after may be on the bottom of a pile of packs five- high and at the back of multiple rows of packs. Calling ahead will avoid a wasted trip and give the vendor time to get on the fork and dig the right pack out for you.
• Have a good plan or even drawing and cutlist of your project, as well as a budget of what you can spend to discuss with your supplier, this will help them best advise you on suitable and available stock.
• Where possible, buy the shorter lengths. ‘Shorts’ are anything up to and including 1200mm long and for a vendor can be an annoyance to store, stocktake and sell in pack volume. If your project has smaller components (even for example the legs on a dining table or workbench), then consider taking some shorts in lieu of breaking down longer boards. Everybody can win in this situation, and believe me, the vendor will appreciate it.
• If you’re sorting through a stack or pallet of boards, then do the right thing and tidy up and reorganise the stack once you’ve chosen your boards.
• Don’t assume you can grab your block plane and take some shavings to dig through the milling marks. Ask permission first, and don’t be offended if the vendor prefers you didn’t. Ditto for a pin-based invasive moisture meter.
• Have a plan in place for loading your purchases into your vehicle, including having the right cutting and measuring tools and PPE with you, or discuss delivery options with the vendor at the time of payment.
9. ‘Wanding’ your stock with a metal detector is a good investment in time and money.
10. This bullet was discovered in a pack of prime grade stock from a reputable supplier. It does happen...
Stock labelling and nomenclature
There are a number of marking and labelling conventions that may appear bewildering at first glance, but with
a little bit of knowledge you can immediately decipher what is in front of you. Some are listed on this page.
Common labels
KD: kiln-dried
RS: rough-sawn
SEL: select grade
SAB: ‘Standards and Better’ grade
FAS: ‘Firsts and Seconds’ grade
RW: random width
50 or 8/4: thickness
3.0 or 30: length in metres, usually marked on the end or the face of the board at the end
Many vendors will also have their own individual marking systems for identifying defects. For example, there may be a board with a substantial end-check crack on the end, or perhaps a large and structurally unsound knot right in the middle of the length of the board.
You’ll often see chalk or crayon markings crossing those sections out and it then isn’t included in the measurement or subsequent cost of the board. This is done to keep the board at a higher grading (as the defect is essentially not included
in the measurement and therefore assessment of the board) and accordingly more valuable by volume. Everybody wins, as long as you don’t go asking for a discount by virtue of the defect.
Checking your stock
Having a metal detector and moisture meter will greatly assist you when inspecting timber, particularly when buying informally through the socials or classifieds. And even though the reputable suppliers do their best to supply quality materials, it always pays to check prior to cutting. I’ve had ‘kiln-dried’ stock come into my shop and read 23% on the meter, likewise I’ve dug multiple bullets out of packs of stock graded as Prime.
Environmental and legal
Many species are now rightfully plantation and forestry managed, with extremely tightly legislated and regulated procedures for harvest and use. Many reputable suppliers will adhere to one or more of several internationally recognised chain of custody certifications for their products in an effort to reduce the effects of illegal logging. By choosing stock that is chain of custody certified you’ll be doing your bit as well.
Examples of such certifications include Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC), Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and, particularly for Australian hardwoods, Australian Forestry Standard (AFS).
Be wary of buying exotic species on an informal basis. Many species are now officially listed under CITES – the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. Among other things, this convention prohibits or restricts the trade and/or movement of listed species in an attempt to reduce and hopefully eliminate illegal and/or overuse of a resource to preserve the species.
11. The crossed-out spalted section of this hard maple had progressed from decorative to being non- structural, and wasn’t included in the pack tally. Sometimes defects like this are left in to make stacking the pack for transport easier.
12. This board of New Guinea rosewood is 2.7m long but has been tallied and charged at 2@0.9 to allow for the defective section marked with X’s during grading. You can’t ask for a discount on a board like this because it has already been accounted for.
Industry trends
Timber is a natural resource, and it can be argued whether or not any particular species can be classed as renewable. I’m not going to go into that, but I thought I’d discuss a number of recent developments that have or will impact us woodworkers.
Locally, a number of iconic forests are about to be closed to commercial logging. Two notable examples are jarrah in WA and Victorian ash in Victoria. This will naturally restrict supply and put upward pressure on prices.
Covid had a substantial impact on supply and pricing of many species, and locally in particular, many smaller mills either closed down or shifted their operations to structural rather than joinery timbers, which has meant certain species, such as spotted gum, are prioritised to the structural market by some mills.
One supplier that I spoke to predicts that laminated and finger-jointed (FJ) products are likely to become more commonplace and will need to be more accepted in the joinery industry.
In summary
Buying timber stock can be difficult, particularly for home-based woodworkers. Having some understanding of what I’ve discussed here, along with a good idea of how much stock you’ll need based on your plan, will make your discussions with your suppliers so much easier, and they’ll be able to provide you with far greater assistance. This will assist in fostering a solid and enduring relationship, as well as ensuring you get the right quality and amount of stock for your projects.
Damion Fauser is a Brisbane designer maker who also teaches woodwork classes from his workshop.
Learn more at http://www.damionfauser.com/